Friday, November 28, 2014

South America


ARGENTINA:  Mendoza

COLOMBIA:  Cartagena   Medellin

CHILE:  Santiago   Valparaiso

URUGUAY:  Carmelo   Jose Ignacio

Jose Ignacio, Uruguay

Jose Ignacio is one of the greatest places on earth. Described as "St. Tropez meets the Hamptons" by many, the glamorous but casual beach vibe can't be beat.  High season is mid-December through January. You could also go late November / early December for a more relaxing time (and much lower hotel rates), but many restaurants and shops will not be open.  (That said, Playa Vik (hotel) and La Huella (restaurant) are both open then - and what more could you really need in life?!).  If you're going for the scene, only go during high season.

GETTING THERE
Don't plan to spend any time in Punta del Este when you land (it has turned into 'Cancun'). Rent a car at the airport, stop in La Barra for lunch (perhaps at El Chancho y la Coneja), and arrive in Jose Ignacio ASAP! It's about an hour drive along the coast.
RESTAURANTS
Always make dinner reservations (and for La Huella, you'll even need lunch reservations).  Dinner is 10:30pm or later; lunch is 2-3pm. The food in this town is fabulous.  As is Uruguayan wine.
  • La Huella - Heaven on earth!  Rivals Gjelina in Venice Beach and Pamela Popo in Paris for best restaurant ever.  "a restaurant famous foodies are making the pilgrimage to, operates from a humble beach bungalow (T Mag) ... Social life for the region revolves around Martin Pittaluga's restaurant, which serves sumptuous grilled fish, sushi and dulce de leche dessert on a deck overlooking the sea. Attire is relaxed—flowing linen and leather sandals are de rigueur—and lunches drift into the early evening."
  • Naam - "Even with a map, you'll likely have to stop for directions before arriving to a dirt road leading to NAMM. Its name is synonymous with haute high season dining where celebrity locals scoop-up their favorite table for lavish feasts under the exposed sky. The restaurant is located within a dense pine forest on the rim of Jose Ignacio. More supper club than high-end eatery, a bamboo and teak-theme dining room features an open-plan kitchen as well as makeshift wine bar popular of late weekends and holidays."
  • La Olada - great for dinner, candlelit patio with delicious food from a husband & wife team
  • Jardin by Sarava
  • La Susannabeach club restaurant by Vik Resorts. Open from lunch through late evening, the club manages to transition from lively brunch spot to sunset cocktails and evening dinner with additional beach lounger service available by day.
  • Marismo - "A few miles from Jose Ignacio up a dusty road sits Marismo, a Jose Ignacio gem. Candles are the main source of light and pines the only source of cover in this fully al-fresco restaurant that serves up slow-braised lamb and seafood. Prepare to get lost a few times trying to find it, no signs mark Marismo’s presence nor does it have a real address"
  • El Garzon outstanding food from the great chef Francis Mallmann in a cool and unique town of the same name (a drive from Jose Ignacio ... and very expensive ... but worth it).
HOTELS
House rentals are extremely popular, but Vik retreats are to die for.
  • Playa Vik - one of the best hotels on earth, from the views to the lawn to the pool to the food to the service. We stayed at a Four Seasons immediately following our time at Playa Vik, and it was a let down!
  • Bahia Vik - Playa Vik's sister property (a short stroll along the beach between the two); also fabulous. More rooms than Playa Vik.


MISCELLANEOUS
  • La Caracola - "beach club on shores of Laguna Garzon, only accessible by boat & super VIP (T Mag), a private club opened by La Huella. You take a short boat ride and arrive on a tiny, deserted island. Only approximately 20 people can be there at once. Each party has their own beautiful tent. You lay outside on the beach by your tent and are served the most incredible drinks and snacks all day. They do an authentic, divine asado (Uruguayan barbecue) with everything cooked over the fire — lamb, fish, meat — along with the most amazing array of salads. It was pure indulgence. ... La Caracola is a dining club set on a tiny island ten minutes drive from José Ignacio. Space is limited to 30 guests, who are boated across a lagoon to a private beach and plied with as much clerico, seafood and meat as they’d like for a set rate of $180. A whole day affair, guests normally arrive around 2 p.m. and leave around 8 p.m." RESERVAS@PARADORLACARACOLA.COM
SHOPPING
  • Santas Negras - store of local fashion & housewares, also has restaurant (T Mag)
  • Mutate - Tucked behind Jose Ignacio’s most popular coffee shop, Mutate (meaning “astound yourself”) sells a curated mix of men and women’s clothing, vintage accessories and trinkets. José Ignacio Town. Café de la place.
  • El Canuto - Located steps from Playa Vik near Jose Ignacio’s iconic lighthouse, El Canuto stocks an impeccable collection of easy-breezy beachwear and handmade jewelry in a beautiful rustic environment.
  • Manos del Uruguay (Punta del Este) - "Buy a hand-woven wool shawl from Manos del Uruguay, one of several local-designer boutiques on glitzy Avenida Gorlero. Down the street at the Hippie Market, sift through handmade jewelry, textiles, and baskets to find the perfect mate—a bulbous goblet made for sipping yerba maté, a strong tea as ubiquitous in Uruguay as Starbucks lattes are in Manhattan. The souvenir doubles as an objet for your coffee table back home."

Carmelo, Uruguay

Coming Soon

Valparaiso, Chile

HOTELS

RESTAURANTS
The food is not very good in Valpo. The restaurants are fun, though, and the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc is fantastic!
  • La Caperucita y El Lobo - quaint eatery with views of the city
  • Pasta e Vino - "A smoldering waitstaff works the city's most coveted tables, while the Chilean-Italian duo behind the scenes serves gnocchi (30 types) and surprising ravioli concoctions"  Note, the gnochhi is big, and weird - it's not the Italian gnocchi you're used to.
  • Casa Cuatro Ventos - eagle's nest view of the seaport

COCKTAILS

  • Antonia Wines Boutique wine bar - tiny bar with tiny patio overlooking the city; friendly owner brings amazing charcuterie with wines by the glass or bottle
  • Hotel Fauna - fantastic, hip rooftop bar. Get a pisco sour!
  • Cafe Vinilo - for cappucinos in morning or wine in evening

SIGHTS

  • Lautaro Rosas - street of trendy shops,
  • Plaza Matriz - The historic heart of the city, which is watched over by Iglesia La Matriz . Begun in 1837, it's the fifth church to occupy this site since the construction of the original chapel in 1559. In nearby streets, luridly lit 'cabarets' (read: brothels) and liquor stores testify that port life in Valpo is still very much alive.
  • Plaza Sotomayor - main square
  • Ascensor Concepción - The creaking ride is a must, even if it is disorienting: the 45-second descent takes passengers from the quiet hills and deposits them on the city’s flat, traffic-clogged business corridor.
  • Cerro Concepcion - ride the ascensor or for some excercise walk up hill from Bella Vista metro station. cafes & views at top



WINE COUNTRY

Santiago, Chile

Coming Soon!

Mendoza, Argentina

The city of Mendoza is not all that fabulous during the day. At night, Avenue Arístides comes alive and the bustle is quite pleasant.  The wine region surrounding Mendoza is gorgeous, and the wine fabulous. Our tour with Mendoza Wine Camp was fantastic!

RESTAURANTS

  • Don Claudio - "Think of the lomo as Mendoza’s answer to the Philly cheesesteak — a grilled sirloin sandwich with melted cheese, fried egg and mayo. At this old-school city institution, the dish is served in a bright, canteen-like space, with large bottles of ice-cold Quilmes, the country’s favorite beer."
  • Anna Bistro - "This hip lounge-restaurant, opened by two French brothers, serves small plates like salmon empanadas and local wines. It has many tables inside, but if you are dining on a summer evening, their pretty, leafy garden or under the vines on the patio is the best spot for a meal or a cocktail. Food is well-presented and flavorful including meat and fish dishes as well as big, healthy salads (which should be taken advantage of – these are rare in the land of the steak). There is a quality wine list but the cocktails are not to be missed. Stylish classic cocktails come in lots of colorful combinations, but the most popular is the Mojito."
  • Ituzaingo - In South America, this is what they call a 'closed door dining experience' (dinner in someone's home).  Located in a "lofty home that doubles up as Ituzaingo Restó, the living room and green back patio are designated dining areas, where musicians gently ply their wares in summer. There’s no better welcome than that from a hanging cava, which is swiftly followed up a glass of wine and appetizers from friendly staff. Although the eight-course paired tasting menu covers the spectrum of Argentine cuisine, Ituzaingo also injects criolla, gourmet, fusion and molecular techniques to its dishes."

After your (10pm) dinner, stroll down Avenue Aristides and stop at any of the bustling cafes for a cocktail. (El Palenque, PH Bar, etc.)


ASIA


CAMBODIA:  Siem Reap

CHINA:  Beijing    Hong Kong     Shanghai

INDONESIA:  Bali

JAPAN:  Tokyo

LAOS:  
Luang Prabang

MALAYSIA:  Kuala Lumpur     Langkawi     Penang

THAILAND:  Chiang Mai     Phuket     Bangkok

NORTH AMERICA




United States
Central America
Canada




















Santa Fe, NM







Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Granada, Nicaragua

STAY:
  • Hotel Plaza Colon - clean, great service, breakfast & location! rooms in front have fabulous balconies but can be a bit noisy as they overlook "Central Park"
COCKTAILS:
  • Ciudad Lounge - a bit off the beaten path but worth the trek; bypass the wine bar area in front and relax on the beautiful open-air patio in back
  • El Tercer Ojo 
  • Walk down Calle La Libertad, behind cathedral, for lots of bars and restaurants
SHOP:
  • Pulsera Project for the coolest handmade friendship bracelets you've ever seen ($5/each). Money goes to a great cause.
  • The mini craft market up the stairs on a corner behind Hotel Plaza Colon
  • Ole - 20 local artisans making modern versions of local arts and crafts

Thursday, October 10, 2013

Key West, Florida

Some restaurants and most bars in Key West are located on or just off of Duval Street and offer a Mardi-Gras-mixed-with-Spring-Break feel. If you want to test your skills at polishing off 12 Mind Erasers next to a guy in shorts, flip flops and one of those vulgar t-shirts from the local kiosk about which you asked yourself, “who actually BUYS those?!” … just wander around the section of Duval from Front St. to Angela St. Otherwise, enjoy the fabulous side-streets and rest of Duval, full of incredible dining and island homes which deserve a full couple days of exploring via bicycle. 

BREAKFAST & LUNCH:
  • Help Yourself – organic café with salads, wraps, juices, smoothies (exactly what you’ll crave after trying all of the dinner options below)
  • BlackFin Bistro – simple, lovely interior with friendly staff and fresh, delicious fare of primarily salads and fish.
  • Blue Heaven – a former brothel-turned-really-popular eatery with dishes ranging from shrimp & grits to beef tenderloin to gumbo to homemade banana bread
  • Five Brothers – bakery with legit Cuban sandwiches and daily specials like Ropa Vieja with plantains, rice and beans
  • Southernmost Beach Café – what may look like a cheesy tourist trap is always a can’t-miss stop. Get a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and the homemade key lime pie for dessert. You’re on vacation!
DINNER:
Always make reservations.
  • Onlywood – pizza and pasta; best Linguine Vongole ever. Cute patio and ridiculously friendly service. Set in an alleyway just off Duval
  • Flaming Buoy – In the midst of a residential neighborhood, this sassy corner bistro and its sassy (in a good way) staff serve up a fabulous wine list and excellent dishes. Get the lobster mac & cheese appetizer!!!
  • Seven Fish – Whatever the fish special is, get it. Highest Zagat rating in South Florida and “hip” for Key West.
  • Santiago’s Bodega – tapas-style; must get the beef carpaccio, brussel sprouts & short ribs
  • BlackFin Bistro – (see lunch)
  • Café Sole – Excellent French cooking in a totally random, eclectic setting
  • Ambrosia Sushi
WHERE TO DRINK
Here’s a few suggestions, but really, just wander around. If you can’t find a cocktail in this town, you have bigger issues!
  • Hog’s Breath Saloon – this is a typical Duval street bar, located in the midst of the “Mardis Gras” setting, but the live music is typically SO GOOD that I’ll make an exemption and actually list this as a must while in Key West!
  • Nine One Five – A restored Victorian mansion serving dinner & drinks downstairs and on its Duval-front patio
    • Point5, the bar upstairs with DJs and impromptu burlesque shows
  • 2Cent – Monday through Friday happy hour, 4:30-6:30pm
THINGS TO DO:
  • Rent bikes! Riding through the neighborhood can be done for days
  • Wanderlust Boutique: local artisan clothing & jewelry (women’s)
  • Cuban Coffee Queen: DO NOT LEAVE without getting a Cafecito (2 shots espresso, sugar cane, steamed milk) or iced coffee (their ice cubes are made out of coffee) and perhaps a Cuban sandwich / snack
  • Sunset at Mallory Square – The town gathers along the boardwalk to watch the sun go down amidst weirdos with trained cats and non-weirdos who pre-make a few hundred cups of pre-crushed ice / sugar / mint … mojitos on demand. There’s a restaurant called Sunset Pier with live music, at one end.

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Langkawi, Malaysia

Langkawi is a beautifully romantic, never-leave-the-hotel type place.  Stay about an hour from 'downtown,' in one of the two secluded hotels nestled in the jungle on the Andaman Bay.  The vegetation is the most lush you may ever see, and the bay calm and relaxing.  Decisions to make while you're there:  pool or beach? kayak or snorkel? cocktail or smoothie? handstand or cartwheel?
  • The Andaman - amazing
  • The Datai - really, really amazing!

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Visiting Angkor:


  • You must hire a tour guide / driver.  Be prepared to wake up very early and be on your feet all day.  Try Bunphen Chan (chbunpheng@yahoo.com / 855-126-306-11).
  • If you visit early (get picked up at 6am at your hotel), you can experience the morning sun peering down upon Wat Ta Phrom and its enormous Banyan roots – a wise choice as most tourists (and tour busses!) select this temple as an early evening visit.  
  • Touring the 900 year old, grandiose (an understatement) Angkor Wat can take well over two hours, with its sprawling moat, entryway and towers.  But the sites around the main temple are also incredible ... don't miss Bayon within the Angkor Thom site, which is covered in larger-than-life hand carved faces as far as the eye can see.
Evenings in Siem Reap:
  • An absolute must:  cocktails at the Elephant Bar at Raffles Grand Hotel
  • Spend some time on “Pub Street” (yes, that’s the real name), as well as the quainter side streets which come alive post-sundown.  With $.50 beers at almost every bar and restaurant, there is plenty of people watching and drinking to be done!  
  • Spend an afternoon at the artsy, French-colonial-infused-with-art-deco Hotel de la Paix  (try the Khmer rice brandy ... when in Rome!)
Hotels:
  • Amansara - nice, but not great
  • Hotel de la Paix - speechless!!
  • La Residence d’Angkor - nice, but not great
  • Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor - very nice (if you don't stay here, you MUST have a drink at the hotel's Elephant Bar!)


Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Beijing, China

SIGHTS



  • Temple of Heaven – Neat to see, although if you are limited on time, this one is skippable
  • Summer Palace – Pretty.
  • Tiananmen Square – It's just a square ... but, it’s a MASSIVE one and also at the entrance gate to the Forbidden City, which is awesome.  One must refrain from “talking politics” – especially in a negative light about the Chinese government, of course – while in this square, as there are undercover policemen looking out for just that (really ... although sounds more and more like the US government ...)
  • Forbidden City – Really incredible, and sprawling!  An absolute must.

RESTAURANTS

  • Da Dong - enjoy the famous Peking ("Beijing") duck, and pour yourself free wine while you wait for your table
  • Hua Jia Yiyuan - bustling!  Enjoy fried spare ribs, fried apples, chop suey, etc., amidst red velvet couches, courtyards and Chinese lanterns.  
Also check out the trendy and bohemian “No Name” bar in Houhai Lake, a lake in the middle of the city surrounded by tons of neon-lit bars and cafes (classier and cooler than it sounds!).

Oh, and there's always the Great Wall of China!

Penang, Malaysia

At Bali Hai, you select your fish from over 50 tanks and they grill it right there, on the spot.  Gigantic crab baked with cheese, fresh grilled red snapper, glass noodles with scallops and prawns ... yummy.

This is the only good thing in all of Penang.

Don't go!

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Things to know about Chiang Mai:

  • Nimmanheamin Road - outside and to the west of the Old City, which is like a hip Asian version of Santa Fe.  Lined with galleries, restaurants, bars, cafes, salons, shops and spas, spend some significant time on this end of town!
    • Check out Ginger (store); also one at House Restaurant
    • D Milk, for dessert / snack:  multiple milkshake/snowcone flavors, 100 jars of gummy and chocolate candies, blueberry pie filling, fruits, and other delights as toppings (you get to choose 4).  And, of course, they layer this Drink O’ Perfection in thirds so that they can pour in Carnation Condensed Milk as they go.
  • Chiang Mai’s street vendors are just about as clean as your home kitchen. During the Sunday market, you can spend a whopping $4 on myriad dishes for dinner and dessert, and be stuffed.  This market is better than the night bazaar.
  • RESTAURANTS
    • Dalaaba - you'll read about this place all over, but it's not good. Skip. 
    • The House - this place is awesome. Get there early and shop in the cool stores attached to the restaurant.  You will spend about $30 on an incredible dinner with drinks!  
    • Huen Phen – a must visit for lunch or dinner … it’s legit!  Entrees are $1.  Try the Khao Soi.  
    • Another to try is Bon Kitchen.
  • HOTELS
    • Shangri-La - No thanks; I'd rather stay at a hostel.
    • Chedi - OMG. OMG. OMG.
    • D2 - Nice place.
    • Mandarin Oriental - OMG. OMG. OMG. A bit outside of town. (this changed owners and is no longer a Mandarin, but it's tough to imagine it being bad)
    • Rachamankha - Nice place, even a little nicer than D2.
  • MASSAGE
    • Fah Lanna:  Great spot.  You’ll have to splurge, though – massages are closer to $7 instead of $4.  
  • Everyone will tell you “you have to see the temple on the hill or you haven’t been to Chiang Mai”.  It’s a temple. On a hill.
  • Late February is when there are forest clearing fires in the area.  While the weather is quite pleasant, especially in the evening, the smoke that settles on top of the town is pretty rough (mask-worthy).
  • Smart Cook cooking school – a wonderful afternoon!  Highly recommended.  The instructor even takes you to the local, outdoor market.
  • Patara Elephant Farm - Instead of an elephant “show” – which is the normal tourist activity offered in town – Patara pairs each person with their very own elephant and trainer for the entire day. You'll learn quite a bit about Thai culture, history, and the elephants’ involvement in both through Pat, the English-speaking, friendly and passionate owner.  You'll perform an elephant health check, bathe the elephant, learn their commands, etc.  The elephants are extremely intelligent – responsive to their name when called, and to commands such as “lay down”, “stop”, “go” (as long as you can say the words in Thai, which you'll learn!).  Then, you will mount your elephant and ride it down an easy roadside path to a waterfall area where you watch them play while you enjoy an incredible lunch made by locals (fruits, coconut rice wrapped in banana leaf, fried chicken…).  The post-lunch trek is much more difficult than the morning trail, along a jungle path that would be difficult even for humans to hike.  It’s incredible how these enormous animals can maneuver through trees and treacherous terrain – with us on top!  The tour is complete with a sunset ride through the mountains and rice patties.  A must.
  • There are big tented ‘marts’ with multiple bars inside.  Order of events is as follows:  Sit down at one of the dozens of bars. Order beer.  Tell little girl you don’t want to buy bracelet. Tell little boy you don’t want to buy flower.  Tell little girl you don’t want to buy necklace.  Order one large Chang Beer.  Watch Thai boxing in ring 5 feet in front of you.  Finish beer.  See a Ladyboy bar three bars over –which looks more interesting. Move. Tell little girl you don’t want to buy flower.  Order large Chang Beer.  Ladyboys’ favorite song comes on and they strip down to thongs and do a big dance.  Finish Chang Beer.  Leave.

Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang is (for now) an UNESCO world heritage center with no Starbucks, no hotel chains, and not a tour bus in sight.

The architecture of this very small (one main road and two smaller ones in the town center) destination is quite beautiful.  Its heavy French influence accounts for teak homes and many colonial style shops and restaurants.
The Apsara is a quaint, perfectly located hotel and and a nice base from which to enjoy the town’s small shops, wine bars and restaurants – specifically, L’Elephant (a lively French restaurant) and Arisai (an incredibly delicious Mediterranean bistro).  
Be sure to climb to the temple on the hill and cool off with Beer Lao and spring rolls at Utopia, a cozy Lao-style chill out spot overlooking the Mekong River.

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Seattle, Washington

Capitol Hill = hipster neighborhood

Dinner

  • Sitka & Spruce (Capitol Hill) - in cool market w/ wine bars, home store, etc. Open air kitchen, great windows
  • Bar Cotto (Capitol Hill) - A smallish Parma-style salumeria and cocktail bar with pizza, Italian veggies and a daily selection of local and international cured meats.  Stop in for a snack and cocktail or stay for a whole meal
  • Le Pichet (Pike Place area) - This French bistro possesses both a legendary roast chicken and an informal charm that makes you want to linger all evening with some charcuterie and wine.  Legit French.
  • Delancey - Perfectly fired seasonal pizzas and cunningly simple sides make this a Seattle institution.  Don't miss the desserts; some come for the salted chocolate chip cookies alone.  Walk-in only.
  • Brass Tacks (Georgetown) - The former big and tall shop has acquired a local following with a kitchen whipping up anything you crave - burgers, grilled salads, pork belly, brussels with chorizo.  Super cool, funky interiors.
  • The Coterie Room (Belltown) - Beautiful interiors. High ceilings, subway tiles.  Incredible food. Bottomless mimosa ($14) brunch, and they mean it on the refills.

Thursday, May 30, 2013

Honolulu, Hawaii


View Honolulu, Hawaii in a larger map, with GPS

*** RESTAURANTS (NON-SUSHI)***
  •  Salt (3605 Waialae Ave, dinner only, happy hour) "Very inventive" rave admirers of tapas-style dishes packed with unique flavors along with sausages, house-cured meats and cheeseboards and handcrafted Prohibition-era cocktails; grab a counter seat in the industrial-like setting, kitted out with track lighting, metal beams and wood accents and black and white photos or steal away to the upstairs loft for a nibble.
  • Lucky Belly (no reservations; 50 North Hotel Street- chinatown) entrees $8-$14; draws a stylish crowd with its sleek, earthy-industrial interior w/ rough plank wood walls, exposed ductwork & and its delicious ramen with smoky pork belly and a rich, gingery broth
  •  Hasr Bistro (31 North Pauahi Street - chinatown) entrees $15-$40; next door to the wine shop of the same name, serves French- and Italian-inspired dishes like Kona lobster cioppino; buy a bottle in the shop and have it with your meal
  • Duke’s (2335 Kalakaua Avenue) the famous Duke's restaurant & beach bar
  • Town (3435 Waialae Avenue; closed Sun) Lively & non-fancy New American–Italian locavore heaven with innovative use of local ingredients, industrial digs' hip, young yet welcoming vibe, with its reasonably priced taste of urban chic.

 *** RESTAURANTS (SUSHI)***
  • Sushi Izakaya Gaku (1329 S King St, dinner only, closed Sun) crazy good reviews on Yelp & Chowhound & Tripadvisor; hole-in-wall, best sushi, fresh; This Manoa izakaya-style spot is a favorite among Japanese food enthusiasts, serving dishes straight out of a Tokyo bistro; offering everything from the freshest, most highly prized raw fish to more standard small dishes and omakase, a meal here is pricey, but it's worth it for connoisseurs seeking an overall authentic experience
  •  Doraku Sushi (2233 Kalakaua Ave., 7 days lunch & dinner) - This Miami import's unique takes on classic choices will rock your world agree avid sushi lovers; low-lit chill atmosphere; find a perch at this posh location on the third floor of the Royal Hawaiian Center overlooking the main strip of Honolulu
  • Mitch’s Sushi (524 Ohohia Street Honolulu, 7 days lunch & dinner) "In-freakin'-credible!" cheer fin fans who dive into the outstanding chirashi plates and large portions of the freshest fish at this Japanese seafooder, a reservations-only BYO set in a nondescript warehouse near the airport car rentals; it's not the prettiest locale, but the master sushi chefs ensure that every piece is a balanced work of edible art
  •  Imanas Tei (2626 S King St, dinner only, closed Sun) Incredible reviews on Yelp & Tripadivsor; seek out this smallish University-area Japanese spot for the most authentic specialties and the freshest fish, including excellent sushi and delicious shabu-shabu – the flavors seem traditional, but the twists keep you coming back
  • Yanagi Sushi (762 Kapiolani Blvd, 7 days lunch & dinner) local favorite with a lively atmosphere and photos of celebs is the real deal; big portions bring crowds, even into the late hours so reserve ahead
  •  Yohei Sushi (1111 Dillingham Blvd., 7 days lunch & dinner) authentic Japanese, meticulously presented sushi sure to transport you to Tokyo; not cheap and the hole-in-the-wall digs can seem overcrowded, but given the unbelievable offerings, it remains popular nonetheless.

 *** NIGHTLIFE *** 
Chinatown = hipster area
  • Thirtyninehotel (39 N. Hotel St.) not a hotel; Up the stairs of a dilapidated building, through a white washed club room inside, end at the sunny and lovely rooftop terrace, where insider-y nightlife folk begin their night out
  •  The Manifest (32 North Hotel Street) chic coffee bar by day and sleek cocktail bar by night, the glass-ceilinged, exposed-brick loft space is flooded with natural light. 

  *** THINGS TO DO *** 
  • Hike Diamondhead
    • NYT recommends breakfast before if on Sat @ Farmer’s Market:  7:30 - 11 AM, Kapiolani Community College, 4303 Diamond Head Rd (Parking Lot C) 
  • Manoa falls - Easy 1,200m hike with shoulder-height vegetation akin to Jurassic Park (scenes from the third movie were filmed here). - http://hawaiitrails.ehawaii.gov/trail.php?TrailID=OA+19+007
  • Waimea Falls – cool, easy hike
  • " Booze cruise" - best options are:
    •   Maita'i Catamaran
    • Na Hoku II Catamaran Cruises
    • Waikiki Rigger
  • North Shore - rent a jeep and head on out!  Dining while you're there:
    • Lei Lei’s @ Turtle Bay Resort- Surfers go for a nice dinner; beautiful views; has just what you need, from breakfast to drinks after a round on the green to a pleasant dinner; the casual atmosphere is so welcoming; while the fare is a minor miracle and much better than it needs to be for a golf clubhouse cafe
    • Jameson’s - A Haleiwa tradition, this surf 'n' turf standby hasn't lost its charm, with a beautiful open-air location facing the water and postcard views; a romantic mood enhanced by hurricane lamps, overhead fans and a symphony of island flavors
    • Stortos – for sandwiches
    • Ted’s - amazing bakery w/ yummy breakfast (also great shrimp plate & Haupia pie)

  *** YOGA ***  
Based on strong, Vinyasa Flow classes
  • Waikiki Hot Yoga - legit, nice & clean. 108 degree sauna! $25/class 
    • Miramar at Waikiki Hotel - 2345 Kuhio Ave
    • Daily 9:30, 11:30, 4:30, 6:30
  • Power Yoga Hawaii - Bryan Kest style, good music
    • 510 Piikoi 
    • Th 5:15 / Fri 9:30, 12, 4:30 / Sat 9:30, 5 / Sun 9:30 / Mon 9:30, 12
  • Sunset Yoga Hawaii - *ON BEACH AT SUNSET* $15; must RSVP: www.sunsetyogahawaii.com
    • Ala Moana Beach 
    • Thurs, Sun 5:45pm
  • SUP Yoga w/ Salt Fitness - Email to sign up: http://www.saltfitness.com/class-schedule/
    • Fri 5-6:15 (sunset), Sat 10-11:15am & 5-6:15, Sun 10-11:15 & 5-6:15




Monday, April 15, 2013

Tokyo, Japan


View Tokyo, Japan in a larger map, with GPS

While the people (and clothes) are size negative petite, Tokyo itself is an XXL; so, spend your days exploring the neighborhoods.


***KNOW***
  • There is no English here.  And I mean NO. ENGLISH. HERE.  
  • Tokyo is the one Asian city that hands out free packs of tissue (with advertising) on every corner. It is also the one city with nice bathrooms (with toilet paper) everywhere you turn. Let’s teach China a thing or two about this brilliant little advertising concept, shall we?
  • Mochi isn’t good here unless you have a secret love of red bean paste as the filling. Stick to Trader Joe's.
  • 7-11′s food selection puts Whole Foods to shame. 
  •  7-11′s sake selection is a hangover waiting to happen. You’ve been warned. 
  • Actually, anyone’s sake selection is a hangover waiting to happen. Just because it comes in these cute little cups that the top pops off of does not mean it’s good for you. 
  • ALL bars have a cover charge (some restaurants, too) … and some wait to tell you until you are leaving.
  • The Sony showroom isn't cool unless you've never been to Best Buy.
  • Denki Bran is considered “poor man’s whiskey."  Just say no.

***THE HOODS***
  • SHIBUYA 
    • Stop by one of the Udon places – the menus (with pictures, thank goodness) are out front along with a vending machine of tickets. Wait in line, make your purchase from the vending machine, go inside, turn in your ticket and, poof!, your selection is handed over. 
    • Sushi No Midori – sushi spot in the Shibuya Metro station (yes!) with a guaranteed 30+ minute wait … worth the wait if it's 300 minutes.
    • Buri – cool sake bar in the metro station by Yogogi park 
    •  Explore the area's fab boutiques with a quaint feel
    • Walk along Takeshita Dori, where all the “Harajuku Girls” hang out 
    • Use the vending machines that put ice in your soda (once you find a local to show you how to use it)
    • Kyusha Jangara Ramen – line spilling out the door for the most delicious ramen on earth
  • GINZA - This is the area you see on TV, with the high-rises and neon signs. GLAM!
    • Go to a "magic bar," where the bartenders are magicians (most are 'hidden' in high-rise buildings).  Prepare for a $60+/hour cover charge, and lots of cigarette smoke.
      • On that note, the fact that a bar is on the fifth floor of a dark apartment-like building, inside one of the ‘apartments’ … and every other ‘apartment’ is also a 3-6 seat  bar, and every building in the area is an ‘apartment building’ … Well, you get the point. 
    • Andy’s Shinhinomoto – Izakaya (Japanese restaurant/pub) under the train tracks, fun and rowdy spot for dinner … Sake to me!
  • TSUKIJI (the world famous fish market) - Walk around the stalls and check out all the 4-seater sushi joints. Sushizanmai is a great place to enjoy some.
  • OMOTESANDO (neighborhood) - Fabulous area! Big, main road with lots of little alleyways full of great shops and cool architecture. 
  • NAKA MAGURO - area surrounding a canal with little shops and restaurants, a nice stroll in a sleepy area
  • SHINJUKU (red light-ish area, good to see but that’s about it)
    • Isetan – famous department store … Hello cool fashion, hello high prices.  Fun to browse. The market in the basement is just plain incredible
  • AZABU JUBAN in ROPPONGI - area where many expats live, nothing too exciting but possibly the world’s greatest grocery stores
  • EBISU
    •  Il Boccalone – Italian restaurant that's delicious and quaint, like the neighborhood