Sunday, March 3, 2013

Toronto, Canada


View Toronto, Ontario, Canada in a larger map, with GPS!

**** DINNER ****
  • MOMOFUKU – a complex w/ Noodle Bar (adaptation of the East Village original), Daishō (emphasis on large format meals), Shōtō (22-seat tasting menu restaurant), Nikai (swanky bar and lounge). <eater>
  • GLAS WINE BAR - little wine bar, or really a cave à manger, in the sense that there is great eating to match the great drinking. <eater>
  • BENT - trademark cooking, which is freewheeling but usually rooted in Asia, in what one might call a bistro setting. <eater>
  • EDULIS - quaint, welcoming space with food inspired by the European countryside that the Globe and Mail dubbed "pleasure bordering on delirium." <eater>
  • THE GROVE - refined, unfussy assuredness of modern British gastropub cooking <eater>
  • OXLEY PUBLIC HOUSE - nicely prepared pub classics. <eater> Fab decor. 
  • URSA - The dining room, dark stained wood and sexy intimacy, serves dishes like exotic mushrooms with a sherry broth and whey-brined Niagara pork loin with kale, lentils and sunchoke purée <ny times>
  • TERRONI - known for thin-crust whole-wheat pizzas and homemade raviolis; the black-stained back deck is filled with model types.<ny times> (one in LA too) 
  • NIAGRA STREET CAFÉ - With a core philosophy of organic (often local) ingredients served at reasonable prices (appetizers under $10; entrées under $20 CAD), provides candlelit romance and a terrific wine list. <ny mag>
  • ORIGIN - modernist destination in downtown’s historic quarter was opened by Toronto’s molecular-cooking standard-bearer <ny mag>
  • UNION - only locally grown, farm-fresh ingredients go into the dishes served, which include elk sliders, terrine, prime rib, beef ribs and roast chicken. Bucolic touches like exposed brick, muted murals and recycled barnwood flooring contrast with modern light fixtures and printed fabrics, compounding to create the resto's country appeal, a mix of close-to-home Canadiana and Euro bistro elements. <toronto.com>
  • BLACK HOOF brains + marrow = trendiness

**** BRUNCH ****
  • THE BEAVER 
  • AUNTIES & UNCLES 
  • THE COUNTY GENERAL

**** COCKTAILS ****
  • COCKTAIL BAR - for grown-ups, with its dreamily lighted interior, tin ceiling, subway-tiled walls & bold cocktail list <ny times>, fab decor 
  • LEVACK BLOCK – resto-bar, where a reclaimed cage from a postal station and subtly striped walls have a 19th-century Paris appeal. <torontolife>
  • 2 CATS - This Slinky, narrow bar is the ultimate icebreaker. Dance and sing along with your newfound friends to classic 80s tunes on the tiny, sweaty dance floor. <blackbook>
  • BELLWOODS BREWERY - The former garage has been whitewashed and fitted with hardwood accents, including the long bar, rough-hewn tables and a small mezzanine. With only 40 indoor seats, it’s intimate, despite very high ceilings (the beer is brewed on site) <ny times>
  • COMMUNIST’S DAUGHTER – cool dive bar 

**** NOT YOUR MOMMA'S SIGHTSEEING **** 
  • ST LAWRENCE MARKET (get a peameal sandwich) – popular attraction in city, north market Saturdays 5am-3pm; south market Fri 8am-7pm & Sat 5am-5pm 
  • BEACHES NEIGHBORHOOD - near the terminus of the Queen Street East streetcar line, stroll or cycle along the lakefront boardwalk. Because of its natural assets, it has become a popular residential neighborhood for young boomers and their families, and Queen Street has plenty of browse-able stores <frommers>, the Venice Beach of Toronto
    • QUEEN STREET WEST– indie area, boutiques (Verso, Inabstracto, Lady Mosquito, Robber)
      • Ossington Street – an edgy Queen West offshoot now city’s hippest drag, a gentrification so rapid that city council recently imposed a year-long moratorium on licensing new bars and restaurants <torontolife>
    • WEST QUEEN WEST - Along Queen from University to Niagara is edgy / hip and became so trendy that the truly bohemian made West Queen West <about.com>
  • KENSINGTON MARKET AREA (Spadina Avenue, Dundas St., Bathurst St. and College St.) – liveliest neighborhood in the city, the Toronto equivalent of the Lower East Side packed into four square blocks, hippie chic w/ international flair, retro furniture stores, vintage clothing boutiques, international food shops.<about.com>
    • Get a coffee @ Sublime Café (also a vintage record shop)
  • CHINATOWN – second largest in N. America
  • DISTILLERY DISTRICT (Mill Street from Parliament to Cherry Street) - pedestrian-only village set amidst the best preserved collection of Victorian Industrial Architecture in North America; devoted to promoting arts / culture <about.com>

Saturday, March 2, 2013

Marrakech, Morocco


Even the EE is not organized enough to map out the craziness of the Medina.  So here's a list:

RESTAURANTS

Breakfast/Brunch
·    16 Café - C18, Marrakech Plaza - Place du 16 novembre
·    Le Café du Livre - 44 Rue Tarkiq Ben Ziad -  tucked away café & book store

Sunday Brunch
·    Le Tanjia – 14, derb J’did  -  Berber brunch on Sundays until 4pm; cool looking, good views
·    Les Cépages - 9, rue Ibn Zaidoun - in a villa
·    Ksar Char Bagh – Palmeraie de Marrakech - one of the best hotels in world by T&L, CNT
·    16 Café (see above)

Lunch
·    Kechmara - 3 Rue de la Liberté, Guéliz -  Marrakesh doesn't get hipper than this. Ice-cool design and exhibitions by Moroccan photographers put this on a par with something in New York's East Village. Locals believe the food could be better -- this makes it better as a lunch drop-in than dinner option. <fodors>
·    16 Café (see above)
·    Cafe Argana - 1, 2, pl. Djemâa el Fna - though a tourist hotspot, has the best combination of price & view - overlooking the Djemaa el Fna square as it comes to life at sunset. Request first-floor terrace (middle level, not upper) <i-escape>
·    Ryad Tamsna - Riad Zitoun Jdid, 23, Derb Zanka Daika - ultra-chic oasis tucked away down a narrow, dusty lane, south of the main square. Stop for a light 3-course lunch (freshly-made soups, salads, chicken, pasta) in the simple but stylish courtyard. Browse around rooms of the riad, exhibitions, book shop and home accessories <i-escape>

Tea
·    Le Cafe des épices - Place Rahba Qedima, Medina -  Great people watching, rooftop terrace is a great place to enjoy the sunset, first-floor chill-out lounge is a meeting place for young, arty Marrakchis <i-escape>
·    Le Café Arabe - 184, rue el Mouassine, Medina-   lunch, tea, coffee or cocktail break in the middle of souk shopping frenzy on a high rooftop terrace! Beautiful, galleried, bougainvillea-strewn riad with local art on display and mojitos for a pricey 90 DH. <i-escape>
·    Dar Cherifa - 8, Derb Cherfa Lakbir, Mouassine -  serves mint tea in a beautifully-restored, artsy old townhouse – trendy; airy riad turned café turned library turned art gallery <i-escape>

Dinner (French & Moroccan)
·    Villa Rosa - 64, Avenue Hassan II - live DJs, a fashionable Hôtel Costes vibe, Parisian decor with plenty of red velvet and dark corners, & a European menu. Get a tables for two facing the terrace through the French windows, or in the library for a more intimate evening. <asmallworld>
·    Al Fassia - Blvd. Zerktouni Residence Tayeb -  good Moroccan food a la carte (try "epaule d'agneaux" – lamb); cheapest of the pricey restaurants; grande dame vibe going on with all kinds of mirrors, gilt and faded rugs; HUGE portions – share! <this cool blog>
·    Le Pavillon - 47, Derb Zaouia, opposite Bab Doukkala Mosque - Best French food, Chic riad; If you arrive early in the evening, have an aperitif on the riad terrace of this chicest of chic French restaurants. Dine in the small courtyard under bountiful fig trees or behind glass in the (warmer) red salon alcoves; closed Tuesdays <fodors>
·    Le Grand Café de la Poste - Blvd el-Mansour Eddahbi, Nouvelle Ville-  Once a French colonial hotel, recently been restored to its flapper-era glory; highly recommended – also good for brunch <lonelyplanet>
·    Le Yacout (great setting) - 79, Sidi Ahmed Soussi, near Bab Doukkala - Palatial house; Its location deep in the medina only adds to its mystery. Aperitifs are taken on the rooftop to the haunting chants of a Gnaoua musician. A traditional Moroccan feast is served in several different settings: beside the pool in a vaulted upstairs room; in an intimate glassed-in salon; or in the lush, cushion-filled main salon. The fixed price includes unlimited drinks. Need reservation <fodors>
·    Bô & Zin – Route de l’Ourika -  Pricey but worth it - A short stretch (20 min) outside the city walls of Marrakech, on the road to l’Ourika valley. One needs a taxi and a guide to get there; the first, because of the distance and the second, because one would certainly not find it. one of Marrakech’s most exciting nightspots, concealed within an ochre-red brick walled bunker. <food snob>
·    Dar Zellij - 1, kaasour Sidi Ben Slimane, Médina -  notably one of the most beautiful gastronomic Moroccan restaurants in the medina (also for Sunday brunch)
·    Le Comptoir -  Restaurant / club - Le Comptoir is to Marrakech what hip hangout Bistroteque is to London. Chefs keep interest buoyant with an array of succulent meats, tiered salads and deserts, seved in an outdoor bedouin restaurant or upstairs in a richly decorated lounge bar. Belly dancers provide entertainment. DJs spin every Friday and Saturday night for the fash pack, the moneyed and visiting celebrities. Have a drink here at the very least.
·    L'Abyssin - Palais Rhoul, Route de Fès Km 4 - Half an hour from Marrakech City centre is a different outdoor eating experience from the Moroccan norm. Authentically rustic, yet glamorous. set in a garden and surrounded by large white linen tents, with a series of tables gathered around a water feature in the centre. Groups eat in the tents and couples around the pool. lit with candles and lanterns, with a gentle sound system floating through. Portable Gas fires are distributed later when the temperature drops. Expensive yes! But for a romantic evening out under the stars it is difficult to beat.
·    Le Tanjia - 14 Derb J’did – Hay Essalam, Mellah, Medina -  Bar downstairs is just off a square & is welcoming with live music - worth a pre-dinner drink. Local style kebabs, tanjia & couscous
·    Dar Moha - 81, rue dar el Bacha -  light Moroccan food in a lovely riad; established reputation for its fixed menu of nouvelle cuisine marocaine, ideal for tagine fatigue. Steer clear of the poky salons; head instead for the outside tables arranged around a small pool and shaded by lush banana palms. <aeris lifestyle>

Traditional Moroccan Feast:
The 3 best, all in the Medina. The food is similar in each and there's plenty of it – you will be fed endless dishes of exotic salads, tagine, couscous and fruit, but you come here more for the atmosphere than fine cuisine. The sumptuous surroundings are straight out of an Arabian Nights fantasy – fountains, lanterns, mosaics, and cushions, low candlelit tables strewn with rose petals, belly dancers and traditional musicians. All very romantic, but by the time you leave with the fullest of stomachs, romance will be the last thing on your mind! Booking is essential. Prices are usually fixed (approx. £40 a head, including unlimited aperitifs and local wine). <i-escape>

·    Yacout (79 Rue Sidi Ahmed Soussi, tel: (+212)(0) 44 38 29 29)-  Best known & most lavishly decorated. Cocktails on rooftop, followed by dinner beside the azure pool or in one of the lush salons. Closed Mondays.<i-escape>
·    Le Tobsil (22 Derb Moulay Abdallah ben Hezzaien, Ksour-R'mila, tel: (+212)(0) 44 44 40 52) -  More intimate than Yacout, French-owned, very popular <i-escape>
·    Dar Marjana (15 Derb Sidi Ali Tair, tel: (+212)(0) 44 44 57 73) -  Aperitifs by the fountain in the tiled courtyard. Dinner is served in the salon upstairs. Long established with good reputation. Closed Tuesdays.


HOTELS TO VISIT

·    Amanjena - Route de Ouarzazate, km 12 -  Aman Resort
·    Kasbah Tamadot -  Richard Branson’s place; 40 min drive from city
·    Jnane Tamsna -  A-list celebrities like Brad Pitt, Giorgio Armani flock to mellow-inducing, effortlessly elegant Jnane Tamsna. Jawdropping keyhole archways welcome you into this Moorish estate, a jigsaw of elegant patios and intimate terraces amid a six-acre organic farm. <i-escape>

NIGHTLIFE
Happening bars & clubs are in Gueliz & Hivernage
Main bars are along Avenue Mohammed V (as well as sidewalk cafes & bistros)

Bars
·    Le Comptoir Darna - Ave. Echouhada, Hivernage -  Located in a residential area, trendy bar – very cool, very candlelit – perfect for a romantic evening when you don't want to see another belly dancer. Popular with rich Moroccans. A lively crowd gathers regularly to dance to the tunes of the top-floor DJ Cocktail bar & gourmet restaurant. <asmallworld>
·    Nikki Beach - Circuit de la Palmeraie Marrakech
·    Kosybar - 47, pl. des Ferblantiers, Kzadria, Medina -  Sushi & Jazz pianist; Located in the heart of the medina, this restobar affords great views of two neighbouring palaces—the ruins of 16th-century El Badi and the nouveau-riche inspired El Bahia. Overstuffed couches ease the mind and body, allowing you to savour the diverse menu
·    Le Churchill – at Hotel La Mamounia (Avenue Bob Jdid) - Famous, glamorous bar with sumptuous Moorish and art deco interior, and a strict dress code, turning away shorts, backpacks
·    Hotel Jardins de la Koutoubia piano bar – 26 rue de la Koutoubia -  requisite pianist who gamely plays requests, and provides the perfect place to sip cocktails by the pool. <marrakeshtraveler>
·    Jad Mahal – 10 Rue Haroun Errachid, Hivernage -  Through the restaurant at the far end of the courtyard, the Jad Mahal's bar is a favourite local spot to linger over cocktails by the bronze elephant until staff crank up the volume on a catchy song, the house cover band arrives, or diners break into spontaneous dance moves <lonelyplanet>
 
Clubs
·    Pacha – Zone hoteliere de l’Aguedal, Boulevard Mohamed VI
·    Teatro (ASW, Massimo) – in same building as the Casino / in the grounds of Hotel es-Saadi, Avenue Qadissia  
·    African Chic
·    Palais Jad Mahal - 10 rue H. Errachid, Fontaine de la Mamounia, Bab Jdid

EXCURSIONS

·    Essaouira - a charming fortified seaside town whose seemingly endless beach, cool winds and laid-back atmosphere provide a refreshing break from bustling Marrakech, especially in summer. It's about 2 hours by car (150km) or 3 hours by bus and makes an ideal overnighter. Three to four hours away from Marrakech is Essaouira, easily Morocco's most likeable seaside resort. After checking into one of the medina's many maisons d'hôte, soak up the atmosphere with a wander along the city's pedestrian-only streets, including visits to the numerous souks such as Souk el Ghezel, known as the Spice Souk; La Joutia, the town's flea market; and place Marché de Grains (the old corn market). Catch the sunset atop the ocean-facing ramparts, Le Skala de Kasbah, followed by a dinner of fresh seafood at one of the port's relaxed fish grills. Call in to see the El Asri family in the Souk des Bijoutiers (Jeweler's Souk), find a bargain in Abdellatif al Koujdaih's carpet shop, and discover the many benefits of argan oil in Arga d'Or. Take an extended lunch break at the Océan Vagabond beach shack, and finish the day with a sunset dinner at the legendary beachfront institution Le Chalet de la Plage. <i-escape>
·    High Atlas - Spend the day (hire a taxi or your own car) and explore the mountainous Ourika Valley to 2,650m and the Oukameden ski resort - 75km south east of Marrakech - popular with skiers in winter and trekkers in summer. Then make your way south towards Asni - 30 kms away where you can see the highest mountain in the Atlas (Mt Toubkal). Return to Marrakech via scenic valleys and Berber villages.

Austin, Texas


View Austin, Texas in a larger map, with GPS!

*** DINING ***

  • Chuy's - This famous Austin joint's known for its determinedly wacky decor -- hubcaps lining the ceiling, Elvis memorabilia galore -- and its sauce-smothered Tex-Mex food.  Chuy's is popular and doesn't take reservations; most people wait for a table by grabbing a seat in the bar area and ordering appetizers and "Mexican martinis" (like margaritas, but bigger and with olives). <frommers>
  • Franklin BBQ - BBQ to die for. Lunch only, but arrive at breakfast as the line extends way way way outside the shack and around the corner. And they run out.
  • Guero's Taco Bar - Channeling the Austin spirit at its best, this SoCo stop attracts masses of locals and visitors alike for no-nonsense Mexican grub and margaritas that'll take the enamel off your teeth served inside a grungy old feed store or out on a covered patio; it's especially popular when live bands are on the bill, so long lines and slow service are to be expected. <zagat>
  • La Condesa - Modern Mexican cuisine in the second-street district.  Multi-level, high ceilings, cool and funky decor ... done nicely.
  • Lambert's - Modern interpretations on Texas cuisine, as well as standard BBQ.  Cool venue and vibe, with a live music stage upstairs.  Nicer than most BBQ joints.
  • The Oasis on Lake Travis - A trip to Austin is not complete without a (designated driver equipped) trek to The Oasis.  There's nothing crazy about the food but enjoy the views and outdoor seating on the tiered deck overlooking Lake Travis.
  • Olivia -  A lovely space with good buzz, this modern South Lamar spot does fresh, seasonal, nice-night-out food with an innovative, eclectic menu that will change your mind about sweetbreads, lamb tongue and other oddities. Fairly pricey. <zagat>
  • Perlas - Gulf-coast style seafood restaurant (yes, it's delicious!) with a rockin' outdoor patio that overlooks the heart of SoCo.  Yum. Fun.
  • Second Bar & Kitchen - Gourmet bar food that will WOW you, and cocktails to match.  Nicer, modern atmosphere than your standard joint.
  • South Congress Cafe - Big Texas taste with chic decor
  • Stubb's - Super famous live music venue as known for its BBQ as its nightly shows.
  • Takoba - Low-key Taqueria on Austin's East Side features a backyard sandbox, complete with beach chairs and fire pits for lounging. Great vibe. And happy hour.
  • Uchi - Prepare to be ruined for all other sushi.  Reservations are hard to get. Despite its great success (including an Iron Chef spot, a Top Chef win, and all the attendant publicity), Uchi doesn’t rest on its laurels. Fish is flown in fresh from Tsukiji several times per week. <fearlesscritic>
  • Uchiko - Warning: this is a rare half-your-paycheck dining experience, but we just can't keep Uchiko's Japanese farmhouse fare to ourselves. The service is tip-top, and the food is to die. Trust your server and have one of the best meals of your life, guaranteed. <eater>

*** COCKTAILS ***
Skip Sixth Street. Don't miss the Rainey Street Bar District!

  • Clive Bar - The bar is lined with white leather and copper-studded bar stools and its clever menu of drinks features Midnight Moonshine and a series of house-made bitters with flavors like cherry-vanilla and tobacco-ginger. But the real gem is in the backyard. Bar Illegal, a tiny candle-lighted space, serves nothing but straight-up mezcal. <nyt>
  • The Driskill - See hotels
  • East Side Showroom - a steam-punk bistro with live music that favors accordions to steel guitars, you can kill time watching a Marx Brothers movie while you wait for a table. Be patient — the barman will take his time preparing drinks like a Japanese Cowboy <nyt>
  • Freedmen's - A laid back lounge, beer garden, and smokehouse in an historic building with retro-inspired cocktails.  In the late 19th century, the building that now houses Freedmen's smokehouse and grill served as a gathering spot for Wheatsville, the African-American community made up of freed slaves.
  • Lustre Pearl - This rickety abandoned house is the anchor of the HIIIIIIP Rainey St. bar district. Feel its old bones creak, striding along its hardwood floors in your flip-flops. Order a Yellow Belly and fried pickles. While away at the jukebox (but pick the right songs or the bartender will fast-forward.) "Rent" a hula hoop and take it outside. Slow down. You move too fast. <blackbook>
  • Midnight Cowboy - The reservation-only (2 hours each) bar is in a former brothel, but the drinks from beverage director Bill Norris and bartender Brian Dressel are clean as can be.  <eater>
  • Weather Up - This Austin outpost of a NYC cocktail bar chain raises the bar in a city already obsessed with delicately crafted, upscale beverages. <eater>

*** HOTELS ***

  • The Driskill - Classic, beautiful Austin hotel with a classic, beautiful Austin bar.  Don't miss a nice pre-dinner cocktail here.
  • Hotel San Jose - An alternative to mainstream lodging, this revamped 1930s motor court is now a cool boutique in a crazy-prime South Congress location, offering comfortable as hell, gorgeously modern rooms with minimal furnishings that make you feel like an artist waking up; the ultra hip bar has outdoor seating in a lush courtyard. <zagat>
  • Hotel St. Cecilia - A small, private hotel, the Saint Cecilia (named after the patron saint of music) sits on a large property just off South Congress. Rooms are designed with clean lines and attractive spaces, and each has its own outdoor area. Ridiculously awesome SoCo location.