Friday, November 28, 2014

Jose Ignacio, Uruguay

Jose Ignacio is one of the greatest places on earth. Described as "St. Tropez meets the Hamptons" by many, the glamorous but casual beach vibe can't be beat.  High season is mid-December through January. You could also go late November / early December for a more relaxing time (and much lower hotel rates), but many restaurants and shops will not be open.  (That said, Playa Vik (hotel) and La Huella (restaurant) are both open then - and what more could you really need in life?!).  If you're going for the scene, only go during high season.

GETTING THERE
Don't plan to spend any time in Punta del Este when you land (it has turned into 'Cancun'). Rent a car at the airport, stop in La Barra for lunch (perhaps at El Chancho y la Coneja), and arrive in Jose Ignacio ASAP! It's about an hour drive along the coast.
RESTAURANTS
Always make dinner reservations (and for La Huella, you'll even need lunch reservations).  Dinner is 10:30pm or later; lunch is 2-3pm. The food in this town is fabulous.  As is Uruguayan wine.
  • La Huella - Heaven on earth!  Rivals Gjelina in Venice Beach and Pamela Popo in Paris for best restaurant ever.  "a restaurant famous foodies are making the pilgrimage to, operates from a humble beach bungalow (T Mag) ... Social life for the region revolves around Martin Pittaluga's restaurant, which serves sumptuous grilled fish, sushi and dulce de leche dessert on a deck overlooking the sea. Attire is relaxed—flowing linen and leather sandals are de rigueur—and lunches drift into the early evening."
  • Naam - "Even with a map, you'll likely have to stop for directions before arriving to a dirt road leading to NAMM. Its name is synonymous with haute high season dining where celebrity locals scoop-up their favorite table for lavish feasts under the exposed sky. The restaurant is located within a dense pine forest on the rim of Jose Ignacio. More supper club than high-end eatery, a bamboo and teak-theme dining room features an open-plan kitchen as well as makeshift wine bar popular of late weekends and holidays."
  • La Olada - great for dinner, candlelit patio with delicious food from a husband & wife team
  • Jardin by Sarava
  • La Susannabeach club restaurant by Vik Resorts. Open from lunch through late evening, the club manages to transition from lively brunch spot to sunset cocktails and evening dinner with additional beach lounger service available by day.
  • Marismo - "A few miles from Jose Ignacio up a dusty road sits Marismo, a Jose Ignacio gem. Candles are the main source of light and pines the only source of cover in this fully al-fresco restaurant that serves up slow-braised lamb and seafood. Prepare to get lost a few times trying to find it, no signs mark Marismo’s presence nor does it have a real address"
  • El Garzon outstanding food from the great chef Francis Mallmann in a cool and unique town of the same name (a drive from Jose Ignacio ... and very expensive ... but worth it).
HOTELS
House rentals are extremely popular, but Vik retreats are to die for.
  • Playa Vik - one of the best hotels on earth, from the views to the lawn to the pool to the food to the service. We stayed at a Four Seasons immediately following our time at Playa Vik, and it was a let down!
  • Bahia Vik - Playa Vik's sister property (a short stroll along the beach between the two); also fabulous. More rooms than Playa Vik.


MISCELLANEOUS
  • La Caracola - "beach club on shores of Laguna Garzon, only accessible by boat & super VIP (T Mag), a private club opened by La Huella. You take a short boat ride and arrive on a tiny, deserted island. Only approximately 20 people can be there at once. Each party has their own beautiful tent. You lay outside on the beach by your tent and are served the most incredible drinks and snacks all day. They do an authentic, divine asado (Uruguayan barbecue) with everything cooked over the fire — lamb, fish, meat — along with the most amazing array of salads. It was pure indulgence. ... La Caracola is a dining club set on a tiny island ten minutes drive from José Ignacio. Space is limited to 30 guests, who are boated across a lagoon to a private beach and plied with as much clerico, seafood and meat as they’d like for a set rate of $180. A whole day affair, guests normally arrive around 2 p.m. and leave around 8 p.m." RESERVAS@PARADORLACARACOLA.COM
SHOPPING
  • Santas Negras - store of local fashion & housewares, also has restaurant (T Mag)
  • Mutate - Tucked behind Jose Ignacio’s most popular coffee shop, Mutate (meaning “astound yourself”) sells a curated mix of men and women’s clothing, vintage accessories and trinkets. José Ignacio Town. Café de la place.
  • El Canuto - Located steps from Playa Vik near Jose Ignacio’s iconic lighthouse, El Canuto stocks an impeccable collection of easy-breezy beachwear and handmade jewelry in a beautiful rustic environment.
  • Manos del Uruguay (Punta del Este) - "Buy a hand-woven wool shawl from Manos del Uruguay, one of several local-designer boutiques on glitzy Avenida Gorlero. Down the street at the Hippie Market, sift through handmade jewelry, textiles, and baskets to find the perfect mate—a bulbous goblet made for sipping yerba maté, a strong tea as ubiquitous in Uruguay as Starbucks lattes are in Manhattan. The souvenir doubles as an objet for your coffee table back home."

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