Chiang Mai, Thailand

Things to know about Chiang Mai:

• Nimmanheamin Road - outside and to the west of the Old City, which is like a hip Asian version of Santa Fe.  Lined with galleries, restaurants, bars, cafes, salons, shops and spas, spend some significant time on this end of town!
• Check out Ginger (store); also one at House Restaurant
• D Milk, for dessert / snack:  multiple milkshake/snowcone flavors, 100 jars of gummy and chocolate candies, blueberry pie filling, fruits, and other delights as toppings (you get to choose 4).  And, of course, they layer this Drink O’ Perfection in thirds so that they can pour in Carnation Condensed Milk as they go.
• Chiang Mai’s street vendors are just about as clean as your home kitchen. During the Sunday market, you can spend a whopping $4 on myriad dishes for dinner and dessert, and be stuffed.  This market is better than the night bazaar.
• RESTAURANTS
• Dalaaba - you'll read about this place all over, but it's not good. Skip. 
• The House - this place is awesome. Get there early and shop in the cool stores attached to the restaurant.  You will spend about $30 on an incredible dinner with drinks!  
• Huen Phen – a must visit for lunch or dinner … it’s legit!  Entrees are $1.  Try the Khao Soi.  
• Another to try is Bon Kitchen.
• HOTELS
• Shangri-La - No thanks; I'd rather stay at a hostel.
• Chedi - OMG. OMG. OMG.
• D2 - Nice place.
• Mandarin Oriental - OMG. OMG. OMG. A bit outside of town. (this changed owners and is no longer a Mandarin, but it's tough to imagine it being bad)
• Rachamankha - Nice place, even a little nicer than D2.
• MASSAGE
• Fah Lanna:  Great spot.  You’ll have to splurge, though – massages are closer to $7 instead of $4.  
• Everyone will tell you “you have to see the temple on the hill or you haven’t been to Chiang Mai”.  It’s a temple. On a hill.
• Late February is when there are forest clearing fires in the area.  While the weather is quite pleasant, especially in the evening, the smoke that settles on top of the town is pretty rough (mask-worthy).
• Smart Cook cooking school – a wonderful afternoon!  Highly recommended.  The instructor even takes you to the local, outdoor market.
• Patara Elephant Farm - Instead of an elephant “show” – which is the normal tourist activity offered in town – Patara pairs each person with their very own elephant and trainer for the entire day. You'll learn quite a bit about Thai culture, history, and the elephants’ involvement in both through Pat, the English-speaking, friendly and passionate owner.  You'll perform an elephant health check, bathe the elephant, learn their commands, etc.  The elephants are extremely intelligent – responsive to their name when called, and to commands such as “lay down”, “stop”, “go” (as long as you can say the words in Thai, which you'll learn!).  Then, you will mount your elephant and ride it down an easy roadside path to a waterfall area where you watch them play while you enjoy an incredible lunch made by locals (fruits, coconut rice wrapped in banana leaf, fried chicken…).  The post-lunch trek is much more difficult than the morning trail, along a jungle path that would be difficult even for humans to hike.  It’s incredible how these enormous animals can maneuver through trees and treacherous terrain – with us on top!  The tour is complete with a sunset ride through the mountains and rice patties.  A must.
• There are big tented ‘marts’ with multiple bars inside.  Order of events is as follows:  Sit down at one of the dozens of bars. Order beer.  Tell little girl you don’t want to buy bracelet. Tell little boy you don’t want to buy flower.  Tell little girl you don’t want to buy necklace.  Order one large Chang Beer.  Watch Thai boxing in ring 5 feet in front of you.  Finish beer.  See a Ladyboy bar three bars over –which looks more interesting. Move. Tell little girl you don’t want to buy flower.  Order large Chang Beer.  Ladyboys’ favorite song comes on and they strip down to thongs and do a big dance.  Finish Chang Beer.  Leave.