Saturday, February 23, 2013

Panama City, Panama


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*** TAXIS ***
  • Without traffic, a drive to the airport can be done in 30 minutes. However, with heavy traffic it can take more than an hour.  Taxi should be ~ $25 from the airport per vehicle (not per person) to Casco Viejo.  Ensure you take the corredor, not the back routes.
  • Taxis go for anything between $2 and $8 tops (inside the city).  Deal for the price BEFORE getting there. Another tip for taxi rates in the city is to just get in and hand over $2 or $3 once you arrive at your destination. Then hold out your hand as to expect change, not as much to get the change but then the driver knows you know it is likely 1.75 or 2.40, etc not $6.
*** NEIGHBORHOODS ***

  • Casco Viejo - Panama City’s historic quarter and by far the city’s most charming and picturesque neighborhood. Yes, some buildings need  a serious face-lift, but cobble-stoned plazas, fabulous restaurants and fun and funky bars more than make up for this. As of January 2013, there is a LOT of construction.
  • Calle Uruguay - a street more than a neighborhood; this is where the "oontz oontz" clubs are. Worth one night out (there are some great restaurants), but otherwise stick to Casco Viejo.  Get dropped off at the intersection of Calle 50 for bar hopping.
*** DINING ***
  • El Trapiche - Ask anyone in Panama City where to savor great Panamanian food, and chances are the first place they say is El Trapiche. There's nothing palatial about it, but you can cool off in the air-conditioned dining room or people-watch from the outdoor sidewalk cafe. Newcomers should not miss the house specialty, the "Panamanian Fiesta" combination plate, which offers a taste of eight different local dishes. 
  • El Mercado de Mariscos (Fish Market) - Fresh ceviche in paper cups for $2 - GO HERE!  Walk into the indoor part (pass the outdoor vendors) and go to the first booth on right (black woman). Order the combinacion.  Nothing fancy - in fact, the extreme opposite - but fresh and delicious. <nyt>
  • Granclement - perfect little ice cream shop
  • La Mar - Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio’s ceviche restaurant opened with much ado in 2009, serving an eclectic selection of citrus-marinated fish. <nyt>
  • La Posta - Higher end restaurant, in a BEAUTIFUL(!) home.  The crazy popularity of this restaurant with the Panamanian jet-set derives from the lively, 1950s Havana-style ambience as well as the tasty creations of its American-trained chef. La Posta has a gorgeous tropical decor, wicker ceiling fans, and plantation-style architecture. Although elegant, the restaurant does not feel pretentious.  Good place to go before your night out on Calle Uruguay (get some classiness in first). <frommers>
  • Las Bovedas - The word bóveda means vault or dungeon in Spanish and when Casco Viejo was established, the location of Las Bóvedas was just that: a holding cell for prisoners and slaves. The restaurant bears no resemblance to a jail cell now with lovely indoor and outdoor seating on picturesque Plaza Francia (also has outdoor tables) <cv.com>
  • Super Gourmet - nice, clean air-conditioned deli (with beer) in Casco Viejo. Perfect sight-seeing break.
  • Las Clementinas - Newish hotel in a 1930s mansion with a restaurant run by Chef Javier Lamarca (from elBulli), hot spot!!  Beautiful.  Do it.  
  • Manolo Caracol - Creative daily menu embraces fresh, in-season products found every morning in the local market. There's no ordering: pay ~$15 for lunch / ~$20 for dinner (not including drinks), and sit back and wait for a vibrantly composed parade of up to 12 courses to be slowly ushered to their table. The dining area is within an antique colonial building, and is casual and warm, with wood tables, white stucco walls, and plenty of religious artifacts and local art. <frommers>
  • Segundo Muelle - Popular for Peruvian food; cool decor
  • Tantalo Hotel's lobby restaurant - Fabulous food (and fun!) for breakfast and lunch (dinner too, but there are far more dinner options ...).  Great decor of vintage suitcases, big light bulbs, etc.
  • Azul at Trump Ocean Club - spend the afternoon at this beautiful poolside lounge, with bar food, cocktails and a lounge chair aside an infinity pool overlooking Panama Bay
  • BARcelona at Trump Ocean Club - Have lunch & sangria outside, with views from new city to old city
*** NIGHTLIFE ***
  • Viejo Habana - Bar & salsa dancing,very busy late night, hot spot
  • Relic - An artsy, bohemian bar, this cave-like, stone-walled spot is a haven for hipsters. Housed underneath the popular Luna Castle Hostel, its outdoor patio and often crowded inside space offers a down-to-earth spot.  <tripadvisor>
  • Tantalo Hotel's rooftop lounge - bar in Casco Viejo with great tunes, a jetset crowd, fabulous view and excellent cocktails
  • Hotel Manrey's rooftop lounge - same as Tantalo, but since it's on Calle Uruguay (and not in Casco Viejo), it's much more modern, and the tunes are more 'oontz oontz' than house music.  Younger.
  • Trump Ocean Club - High class cocktailin'.  Casco Viejo what?
  • El Apartamento -  Literally a renovated apartment, this is now one of the bohemian hot spots of city—you'll fine indie band exhibitions and a rustic, artsy interior.
  • La Casona - cool bar down a dark, dead end street in an old building. Out back, a patio and stage provide space for the bar's live music on weekends; you'll also find art exhibitions and other cultural goings-on. 
*** SIGHTS ***
  • Canal - book a day-long tour through your hotel concierge if you are really into it; otherwise, go to Miraflores Locks to watch (warning: it's crowded. If you have the time, you may as well make a day of it, and they do sell beer on board).
  • Ancon Hill - at the top the Panama Canal can be seen from the one side and Panama City and Colonial city can be seen from the other, great for pictures.
  • San Blas - 1.5 hr drive from Panama City ... a window into a culture you will not find anywhere else. Indigenous people with their colorful traditional outfits and molas. White sand beach island clusters where you can swim from one island to the next.
  • Beaches - don't go to Panama City for its beaches.
*** HOTELS ***
  • Tantalo Hotel - in Casco Viejo. Every room is different and it's a scene.  Bring ear plugs.
  • Las Clementinas - also in Casco Viejo. Beautiful, less of a party scene.

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